What does Spawn mean to me!!

Pre-Spawn

The pre-spawn period begins when water temperatures are 55 to 58 degrees. Bass are headed for the spawning areas and will often group up in "staging areas" where Bass fishing fantasy turns into reality. Staging areas that concentrate a lot of fish tend to be close to spawning areas and usually have a structural component - a sharp depth change (a ledge), a strong main-lake point. Add cover--like stumps, brush, or aquatic vegetation - and you may have the proverbial honey hole.

Spawn

The Bass spawn is dictated by water temperature, and local weather conditions can advance or retard the spawn by several weeks. On any body of water, it is a pretty safe bet that some Bass will be spawning when the water reaches 62 degrees and the spawning ritual is largely over when the water temperature climbs to 70 degrees. In general, look for spawning Bass in 1 to 5 feet of water over hard sand or clay bottom , either close to the bank or on large flats. Yes, largemouth may spawn as deep as 12 feet in lakes with very clear water.

Post-Spawn

The post-spawn period follows the spawn. In many lakes, Bass will bunch up in the same staging areas used during the pre-spawn phase. Heavy cover is often key to post-spawn heavyweight Bass.

Keep in mind a couple realities as you apply this map and report to Bass fishing at your favorite fishing destination:

Small, shallow waters warm faster than large, deep lakes.

The Bass spawn may occur up to a month earlier on the upper end of large lakes and reservoirs with relatively small inflows.

On the other hand, Bass will spawn earlier in backwaters isolated from the main river flows in lakes and reservoirs fed by large rivers.

 

 
SEPTEMBER CRANKBAIT IS ON!
 
MAKING SENSE OF YOUR CRANKBAITS
Start by sorting your baits into at least five groups, maybe six. First, there are your shallow runners; then you have medium runners, deep runners, suspending baits and, finally, hard jerkbaits. He believes it's a waste of time to sort by any criteria other than running depth for this time of year.

Shallow runners include baits that will run no more than 3 feet deep. Medium-running baits generally dive to 6 or 7 feet. Deep runners, according to their manufacturers, will dive to 20 feet or more. Running depth is determined by bait design, line size, casting distance and cranking speed. Consider this when sorting. Smaller diameter line will allow lures to dive to deeper depths. At one time this meant using a lower line test weight, but no longer. Spool up with some of the new premium lines for maximum strength and narrow diameters.

After sorting some lures into the first three categories, move on to your suspending baits and your jerkbaits. These categories will overlap. According to Wells, lures of this type should be categorized based on intended use. Create your own criteria based on your needs.

You may wish to consider creating a sixth category: customized lures. Place lures in this category because you have customized them yourself. Some of the best crankbaiters - anglers such as legendary smallmouth guide Bob Coan - believe these are the most effective baits of all because they are, or at least should be, customized for your waters and your fish.

A favorite of Coan's for this time of year is a suspending deep-diving bait. His custom lure looks a lot like one you might find on the shelf of a tackle store, but it's not. Coan's bait suspends because he has weighted and balanced the bait himself.

To do this, Coan takes four Storm SuspenDots (small pieces of lead tape will also work) and carefully positions them on the underside of the lure. He puts one SuspenDot on the bottom side of the running lip - just forward of the screw that holds the lure tie in place. Then he places three more SuspenDots in a triangle pattern around the first hook tie on the belly of the lure - one in front of the tie and one on each side of the tie.

According to Coan, once this bait is cranked down, you can "stop it, go pour a cup of coffee, drink the coffee, eat a bologna sandwich, and when you go back to it, you will find it just where you left it."

Wells, on the other hand, likes to customize jerkbaits. He says that a small amount of added weight will allow for a more stable suspension or allow the lure to fall ever so slowly. Just be sure that your weight placement doesn't adversely affect the action of the lure. Generally, weights placed on the belly forward of the hook screws work best.

After sorting and customizing your lures, Wells and Coan both recommend tuning them. You can do this in a swimming pool or on the water. (You do not need especially clear water to tune a bait - just watch the line where it enters the water.)

Make certain that your baits track straight and true on a medium speed retrieve. Most of these baits are precision engineered to produce a specific wiggle when retrieved at a specific speed. They usually work best when running true.

If a bait is running left or right, adjust its retrieve by bending the tie screw left or right, in the opposite direction of the way they're running, until the lure runs true. Be sure to bend the eye of the tie only - don't twist it in the plastic of the lip or you could break it.

Experienced crankbaiters will tell you that snaps, rather than split rings, are best for attaching your line to the lure. These anglers believe that the width and unevenness of the split ring cause the lure to run improperly. Even worse, they point out, the lure does not track the same each time it is retrieved.

 

 

TEXAS RIGGING BASICS
 
Basics for Texas Rigging

There are some advantages to the Texas worm rig over the old weedless-hook style of worm fishing. The biggest advantage is it's more compact and streamlined. We're using cone-shaped bullet worm weights instead of split shot or the old egg sinkers. the cone shaped weights swim their way through grass and other cover much better. Also, the hook is less exposed. Another great weight is the Mojo style sinker, which is a cylindrical shaped weight that is very versatile.

The real advantage, though with the Texas rig is the fact that it can be snaked, crawled, and jigged across almost any bottom surface.

Get hook, lead, worm and rod and reel Thread line through the lead Tie hook to line using improved clinch, palomor or Trilene knot
Insert hook point into head of worm, thread down 1/4 inch Bring hook point out of worm, pull shaft of hook through worm until eye is at head,  Insert hook point into worm body, keeping point inside worm Straighten worm on hook so it is straight, align eye of hook straight and insert just inside worm head 
 
ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT FEATURES I MIGHT MENTION IS TO REMEMBER
FISH DO NOT HAVE HANDS !!!
IF YOU FEEL A BITE.....SET THE HOOK !!!!!

Tips:
Use light 1/8 ounce lead for shallow water, bigger lead to 1/2 ounce for deeper water
Peg lead to line with a tooth pick stuck in it to hold lead in one place
Use smaller worms for more action with pressured fish.
Run hook point through side of worm, then pull back in to make a "channel" for better hook set.

Highly suggested is using a flourocarbon type line for greater feel. The difference in my opinion , is the difference between night and day with approximately 25% greater sensitivity.
Flourocarbon line will transmit the feel 25% more than monofilament line and has the same strength.
 


 

 

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